Sewage set up, what to do first
Sewage set up, what to do first
Before carrying out any DIY plumbing and drainage, you should first take into consideration the rules issued by your Local Authority.
Detailed plans of any changing or installing of drainage in your home will have to be submitted, and expect ongoing inspections until its completion to ensure that the work abides by the regulations. However you don’t need to inform them if you are just replacing some broken parts.
When rain falls on your house and property, it runs across as surface water and has to be drained properly. It can drain out through a soakaway, watercourse, surface water sewer or, especially in older houses, into the dirty water sewage pipes. If gully traps are fixed at the junction of the rainwater pipe and the waste water drain, foul odour can be controlled. However with the new sewage systems, the foul and the surface water can be kept apart. If you have a modern system it is very essential that you make sure that you do not accidentally integrate the foul water to a surface water drainage system. The Building Control Department is your first point of contact before you start any work if you are not familiar with your home’s sewage system.
To properly prepare the plans and get local authority permission to commence work there is a need for you to plan the route of the waste pipes before you begin. Sewage pipes must be aligned as straight as possible, with inspection chambers at short intervals. Steep pipes should be averted during the path design. You can calculate the fall of a drain over a distance using a surveyors site level. Or just fill a transparent hosepipe with water and use the water level at the two ends to mark the required fall from the starting point.
Be very careful not to excavate too close to your home, as you may undermine the foundation and cause a structural collapse. The substructure of the building should not be undermined by your digging if the drain pipe runs parallel to it.
Do not dig the ditch too long before laying the pipe when installing a new drainage system. The pipes should be laid quickly and the ditch back filled after the system has been examined thoroughly and tested as required.
Be wary of the depth and soil conditions and if necessary add extra support to the ditch. Do not take any risks. Be on the safe side and secure the sides of such risky trenches by propping with sheets or boards. The excavation should be only as wide as required, but should also permit the fitter to work conveniently. Protruding stones or bricks should not be left in the base and it should be cleaned to provide a smooth, regular surface. You may need to import a suitable material for the base of the ditch if the existing material is unsuitable.
Never use bricks and/or other hard materials to support the pipe in the trench. This should not be used as employing this type of material as a temporary or permanent pipe support will damage the pipe. The bedding should be made compact to fit around the pipe joints. You will need to provide a continuous and uniform support for the complete length of the pipe.
It is very important that the design of the drainage system should be constructed in such a way that all parts of the pipework are accessible to a set of drain rods for future maintenance. So that is why a run of drains should be as straight as possible between two points or inspection chambers. As a general rule, any change in direction of the pipework should be provided with an inspection chamber to allow rodding access.
If you follow this guidance, drainage and DIY plumbing can be within the range of the most DIY enthusiasts.