Drain Pipes fitting, what to do 1st
Drain Pipes fitting, what to do 1st
Before you undertake DIY plumbing and drains work it is essential to understand the national rules and regulations developed by the local authority.
Detailed plans of any changing or installing of sewage in your home will have to be submitted, and expect ongoing inspections until its completion to ensure that the work abides by the regulations. In most cases they do not need to be notified for a simple replacement of broken parts.
If you hear the term ’surface water’ in any drainage documents this basically means rainwater. It can drain out through a soakaway, watercourse, surface water sewer or, especially in older houses, into the dirty water drainage pipes. Air escape from the drains is stopped when rainwater pipes are discharged into the foul water drains through gully traps in an older combined system. However, the latest systems are designed in a way which separates the foul water and the surface water. Rainwater and foul water drainage should not be interconnected, however convenient it may seem. You should get advice from the local authority Building Department before you start any work in a situation when you are not sure about the sewage system around your house.
To properly prepare the plans and get local authority permission to commence work there is a need for you to plan the route of the waste pipes before you begin. The main things to consider when planning the route of a waste or soil pipe are to keep the route as straight and short as you can. Steep pipes should be avoided during the path design. You can calculate the fall of a drain over a distance using a surveyors site level. If you do not have one of these available, establish a datum point and use a hose filled with water to establish levels and calculate the fall from the datum this way.
You need to ascertain that the foundations and structure of the house is safe when digging to install your drain trench. The substructure of the building should not be undermined by your digging if the drainage runs parallel to it.
While installing a new sewage system make sure that you do not dig too long before laying the pipe. The pipes should be laid quickly and the ditch back filled after the system has been examined thoroughly and tested as required.
Be wary of the depth and soil conditions and if necessary add extra support to the ditch. Take he utmost care when doing this work. Be on the safe side and secure the sides of such risky trenches by propping with sheets or boards. The excavation should be only as wide as required, but should also permit the fitter to work conveniently. The base of the ditch should be clean and even and free from protruding stones or bricks etc. You may need to import a suitable material for the base of the ditch if the existing material is unsuitable.
You should definitely not use hard materials such as bricks to support the pipe in the trench. This will damage the pipe and must never be used as temporary or permanent support. For accommodation of the joints in the pipes,the bedding should be compacted in a regular way with hollows made a appropriate points. A comprehensive support should be used for the whole of the pipe.
The sewage system should be designed in a way that pipework remains accessible to drain rods should sewage maintenance work be required. Which means that a run of drains must be installed straight between two points. Inspection chambers have to be provided at any sudden changes of direction or level, so that drain rods can be inserted easily.
Keeping these points in mind, you can carry out your own drainage and plumbing work smoothly and almost professionally.
