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Do this before you start drain pipes set up


   

Do this before you start drain pipes set up

Before you undertake DIY plumbing and drains work it is essential to understand the national rules and regulations formulated by the local authority.

Detailed plans of any changing or installing of sewage in your home will have to be submitted, and expect ongoing inspections until its completion to ensure that the work abides by the rules. In many situations when you are simply replacing damaged parts, there is no need for the local authority to be advised.

Surface water is basically rain. In older properties this surface water can find its way into the foul water sewage system, but more generally it can also end up in a watercourse, surface water sewer or soakaway. In a combined system, the rainwater pipes are discharged into the foul water drains via gully traps which stop foul air escaping from the drains. However, the latest systems are designed in a way which separates the foul water and the surface water. To comply with modern planning rules you should always make sure that the foul water and surface water sewage system do not connect. When in doubt about the how the modern drainage system works, consult the Building Control Department.

Designing the path of the waste passages will be your first task. The main things to consider when planning the route of a waste or soil pipe are to keep the route as straight and short as you can. If the pipe slope is excessive, your joint alignment may fail. Using surveyor’s site level you can calculate the fall of a drain over a distance to check the values. By establishing a datum point and using a hosepipe filled with water to establish levels you can calculate the fall from the datum in a situation when do not have one of these measures available.

The stability of the existing house is of prime importance it should be not compromised while the drain pipe ditch is being installed so check you are not impacting on the existing structure. Keep the drain excavation at a uniformly safe distance from the house face to avoid damage to the foundation.

Try to leave as short a time as possible between digging the ditch and installing the drainage system as an empty trench represents a danger with the potential for a sidewall collapse. Excavate a part of the sewage system, install and test the pipework, and then back fill and compact the earth before moving on to the next part.

The ditch may need to be supported depending on the depth and soil conditions. Do not take any risks. If you are not entirely confident of the stability of the trench you should add support. The excavation should be only as wide as required, but should also permit the fitter to work conveniently. The trench base must be smooth and clean, there shouldn’t be any bricks or protruding stones around. You may have to bring in the right type of material for the bottom of the trench if the one that’s already there is not proper.

Never use bricks and/or other hard materials to support the pipe in the trench. Even if used for just a temporary support this can damage the pipe. The material used for bedding should be firmly compacted down with a depression created to allow the joints in the pipes to fit easily. A good guideline is that support should be provided for the entire length of the pipe.

The drainage system should be designed in a way that pipework remains accessible to drain rods should sewage maintenance work be required. So that is why a run of drains should be as straight as possible between two points or inspection chambers. In case of any change in the direction of the pipework it should be provided with an inspection chamber for allowing drains rod access.

If you follow this guidance, drainage and DIY plumbing can be within the range of the most DIY enthusiasts.


  

Posted in Drainage


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