Before you start sewer fitting do this
Before you start sewer fitting do this
Before you undertake DIY plumbing and drains work it is essential to understand the national rules and regulations developed by the local authority.
Detailed plans of any changing or installing of drainage in your home will have to be submitted, and expect ongoing inspections until its completion to ensure that the work abides by the rules. However, you will probably not have to inform the Local Authority for replacement of damaged parts or sections of sewage as permission will have already been granted for the initial fitting.
If you hear the term ’surface water’ in any sewage documents this basically means rainwater. This surface water can seep into sewers, watercourse and become a part of the sewage system in older housing developments. The rainwater pipes in combined drainage systems empty their discharge into the foul water drains through gully traps, this prevent foul air from escaping outside creating odours. Nowadays hygiene and recycling considerations have led to a mandatory separation of surface water and sewage water. If you have a modern system it is very essential that you make sure that you do not accidentally integrate the foul water to a surface water sewage system. The Building Regulation Department will be able to guide you on any details or procedures you may require for repairs or replacement of your sewage.
Designing the path of the waste passageways will be your first task. Keeping the path as straight and short as possible will be the main concept behind the design of the waste passageways or pipes. You must avoid making your pipe runs too steep. Use a surveyor’s leveling tool to set out the slope of the drain trench. Or just fill a transparent hosepipe with water and use the water level at the two ends to mark the required fall from the starting point.
When installing your drain trench, you will need to make sure that you do not impair the stableness of the building. If you are laying a drain run parallel to the house, you must ensure that any foundations are not weakened.
Do not dig the trench too long before laying the pipe when installing a new drainage system. Excavate a part of the sewage system, install and test the pipework, and then back fill and compact the earth before moving on to the next part.
Because of different depth and soil conditions the ditch will probably need to be supported. Do not take any risks. It is better to provide support to the ditch walls than allowing the ditch to collapse. The trench should be narrow, but spacious enough for people to work with any required tools. The base of the ditch should be clean and even and free from protruding stones or bricks etc. If the existing soil is too weak or clayey, you should place and compact a layer of firmer soil at the base of the trench to prevent later sinking.
For pipe support do not use bricks or other hard materials in the ditch. In fact they should be never used as support as they can damage the pipe as they will focus pressure into a small area. The base should be tightly packed in the appropriate manner with holes carved out to fit in the protruding pipe connections. For the complete pipe length you have to provide a continuous and uniform support.
An important criteria for pipe layout is that you should be able to access any point with a drain rod to clear blockages. Therefore, a run of drains should be as straight as possible between two points. Always make sure that rodding access is allowed in an inspection chamber at any point where the direction of the pipework changes.
If you follow this guidance, drainage and DIY plumbing can be within the range of the most DIY enthusiasts.