Before you commence drains pipes fitting do this
Before you commence drains pipes fitting do this
The most significant thing that you have to worry about while taking on any DIY plumbing and sewage work are the Local Authority regulations which they actively supervise.
If you are changing your current drainage, or installing a new system, you will most definitely be asked to show detailed designs of the implementation that you have in mind and it will need to be overseen as the work moves forward to ensure that it is compliant with local building rules. However you do not require authority approval for replacement of failed joints or cracked plumbing and drains pipes.
The water which you see on the surface is basically rain. In older properties this can discharged into a foul water sewage system whereas in other properties this can discharged into a soakaway, watercourse or a surface water sewer. In a combined system, the rainwater pipes are discharged into the foul water drains via gully traps which stop foul air escaping from the drains. However with the new sewage systems, the foul and the surface water can be kept apart. If you have a modern system it is very essential that you make sure that you do not accidentally integrate the foul water to a surface water drainage system. You should get advice from the local authority Building Department before you start any work in a situation when you are not sure about the drainage system around your house.
To properly prepare the plans and get local authority permission to commence work there is a need for you to plan the route of the waste pipes before you begin. Have an eye to future maintenance when you design the drainage system and always try to keep the waste or soil pipe as straight and short as you can when you are devising the layout. The pipe work should run straight with a gentle incline. You can calculate the fall of a drain over a distance using a surveyors site level. By establishing a datum point and using a hosepipe filled with water to establish levels you can calculate the fall from the datum in a situation when do not have one of these measures available.
When installing your drain ditch, you will need to make sure that you do not impair the stability of the building. Keep the drain excavation at a uniformly safe distance from the house face to avoid damage to the foundation.
If you try to dig all the trenches before you start pipe fixing, there is a chance of some trenches collapsing. The pipes should be laid quickly and the ditch back filled after the system has been examined thoroughly and tested as required.
Depending on the depth and soil conditions, the ditch may require support. Avoid risks when working in the trench. If in doubt add support to the ditch to prevent it from collapsing. Keep the trench as narrow as you can but of course make sure that there is enough room to work in the ditch including any plan, machinery or tools you require. Ensure that the ditch bottom is flat and free of stones, tree roots and soft spots. You may need to import a suitable material for the base of the trench if the existing material is unsuitable.
Never use bricks and/or other hard materials to support the pipe in the ditch. This should not be used as support for the short or the long run because it will damage the pipe, the pipe needs to be fully supported over its full lenght. The bedding should be properly compacted with hollows made to accommodate the joints in the pipes. The entire drain pipe system has to be uniformly supported by the soil bedding.
The drainage system should be designed in a way that pipework remains accessible to drain rods should sewage maintenance work be required. Thus, a drain route must be as straight as possible between any two points. As a general rule, any change in direction of the pipework should be provided with an inspection chamber to allow rodding access.
Keeping these points in mind, you can carry out your own sewage and plumbing work smoothly and almost professionally.
